The following is from the long awaited book Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent
by Jean-Claude Ellena
Perfumer at Hermès
"In order to judge perfumes that have outlasted time I use today's nose, whereas for new perfumes I use yesterday's nose.
And I realize that memory works in such a way that perfumes, which are not experienced with excitement and passion, which are not linked with a personal story or, in our business, with the training of the nose, are devoid of meaning and leave no trace in the memory. I thus conclude that evaluation by categories, by classification, is not enough for me. This perception of perfume is too analytical, too distanced, to move me. In order to discover a perfume, I have to enter into it and grasp it from the inside. Once it is separated from its external apparel, I can appraise, judge and decide.
I also notice that my perception, my understanding, and my judgements of perfumes have evolved with the ideas, the values, the customs, and the tastes of society, and that the mental picture I have of perfumes has constantly altered and become richer. This means that I am constantly reinventing my representation of the past - the past that builds my future creations."
Breathe deeply, and you remember that smell for the rest of your life, the bold, fecund aroma of the tidal marsh, exquisite and sensual, the smell of the South in heat, a smell like new milk, semen, and spilled wine, all perfumed with seawater.
- Pat Conroy The Prince of Tides
Growing up in New England there was a brisk, wake-you-up, salt-bite to any sea inhale. A coast away in California, the ocean scent is truly Pacific, not as stinging, more lulling.
Bobby Darin as quoted in Dodd Darin's book, Dream Lovers: The Magnificent Shattered Lives of Bobby Darin and Sandra Dee by Their Son. Darin advises to always be a sharp dresser as a performer, and addresses his desire to stretch his musical range, not just be seen as Bobby Darin thus Mack the Knife et al.
I have a sense that people smell what they see.
Packaging, adverts, color choices, point of sale, all enter our perception field and affect how we interpret what we smell.
To get into the depths of interpreting smell, we each must figure out how we categorize smells and how our category interpretations can
155,000 persons die each day Tropenmuseum Amsterdam's exhibit Death Matters opens 3 November 2011 click here and addresses how we relate to death throughout the world. Do we need new rituals? Online living memorials exist on facebook pages, web sites, wikipedia entries. Quickly receiving visual and audial information across media platforms has changed our perceptions. Smell and scent play an important part of death rites, memorials, burials and reminiscences of those who have passed. Spritzing certain scents can bring a person right back in the room. See Additional Posts The smell of pine, centuries later click here and here Jim Morrison's beautiful poem on connectors/rites click here Gunther Van Hagens, creator of Body Worlds and the plastination method of preservation has intrigued people around the world. click here
photo: plastinated human body/Body Worlds/San Diego 2009 Patty Mooney engraving: Calavera Oaxaqueña José Guadalupe Posada circa 1903
Mae never takes showers, preferring tub baths perfume with rose-scented bath salts. She has more than a dozen fluffy negligees and wears a different one every morning for breakfast, which she eats on a pink satin chaise lounge in her boudoir.
She has twenty-seven bottles of perfume on her dressing table, but the one she uses almost exclusively is of sweet pe scent … Her hair-dresser comes to her home every morning to give her a finger wave. Her hair is shampooed weekly. Mae’s fingernails are manicured three times a week and always coated with a vivid red polish. She has massages several times a week.
For the sake of her curves she eats rich, creamy foods – likes chocolate candy too.
She is left-handed, naturally, but hides the fact in public. She can’t ride a horse, but is proud of her ability to ride an elephant. She likes to motor, but cant’ drive a car, and is afraid of ocean and air travel. She is a disciple of Yogi, writes in bed, dictating to a secretary.
She’s a home girl, and oddly her homework is writing. - Becoming Mae West, Emily Wortis Leider,Farrar Straus Giroux 1997
"The final frontier smells a lot like a NASCAR race—a bouquet of hot metal, diesel fumes and barbecue. The source? Dying stars, mostly.
We have a few clues as to what space smells like. First of all, there were interviews with astronauts that we were given, when they had been outside and then returned to the space station and were de-suiting and taking off their helmets - they all reported quite particular odours.
For them, what comes across is a smell of fried steak, hot metal and even welding a motorbike, one of them said." - Steven Pearce Omega Ingredients
In the place where this memory lives is perhaps the key to open all the other places that hold the stored words and stories that slip away. I am thinking this once again, walking down the street, writing in invisible ink.
Will the thought of how to unlock the other words and live the memories for the second time (perhaps on paper this time) disappear into that other world of shadows and distant perfume? My mind seems to remember it but cannot actually smell the aroma. It is like the memory of a scent. Perhaps this memory can transport me to another state. Is that not as real? - Deborah Winger, from her book Undiscovered photo: NYC 6th Ave. circa 1940
click herefor information on the Tableau de Parfums
What I love about this film and Brian's directing is time and space change until you sit, not sit like in a chair, more sit as in yoga or a meditation or at a picnic; sit with yourself, to dawning recognitions blooming within the film.
Was the BBC documentary of animals getting "high" once a year with the marula tree's fermented fruit monkied with? I have no idea other than Amarula didn't have that effect on me ... for better or worse
photo: Marula tree and fruit, Transvaal, South Africa by Rotational
All but the anosmic, those who have lost the sense of smell through injury, disease, or inheritance, have experienced the instant recognition of a past incident flashing through the brain during one inhale.
At the fundamental level Nature for whatever reason prefers beauty - physicist David Gross director of the Institute for Theoretical Physics at UCSB
University of California Santa Barbara heterotic strings - bosonic string and superstringheterosis hybrid vigour Knit that model! click here for Knit Chaos and Chaos fragrance
Say ahhhhhh let's smell your breath, your skin, your eliminations, your toes Healers, midwives, medical professionals have long documented the use of smell in pre-diagnosis
Why Ida Meister, working in the fields of oncology and neuroscience, loves her amygdala click here
I've heard doctors speak of smelling ketones on the breath of diabetics ... "... early stages of basal-cell carcinoma, a type of skin cancer, can be detected by analysing the odour of a person’s skin using gas chromatography and mass spectrometry .... Dr. Buszewski is now tweaking his device so that it works with the bio-marker profiles of a range of diseases. If he can do this successfully, olfactory diagnosis could become mainstream without a wagging tail in sight." read here - Olfactory Diagnostics: Smelling Bad The Economist 28 August 2008 click here photo: Greenman Lura Astor
Dr. Anderson We drank, and Price just fell to the floor. Bergerac What made you think it was, uh, poison? Dr. Anderson Well that’s the funny thing … the smell … Coroner Dr. Rodgers What we have here is common old garden poisoning … in this case we have an intelligent adult, a respected financier, a pillar of society here on Jersey, dying from the poison … hemlock …. Grows in marshes and ditches. Looks like sickly cow parsley. Dr. Anderson The effect of hemlock is instantaneous. It must have been administered by someone at the ceremony. Dr. Rodgers It must be 150 years since someone was last murdered with hemlock. Jersey has its very own Lucretia Borgia!
-from Bergerac/Poison February 1987
Don't just put it in your mouth - some plants look alike but one is poison.
- Advice from the 1970's, learning to harvest free plant edibles growing wild in cities and countrysides.
Remember recipes from Stalking the Wild Asparagus by Euell Gibbons ... cattail pollen flour and more?
Wicked Plants: Botanical Rogues & Assassins
through 30 October 2011 San Francisco Conservatory of Flowers
Niki de Saint Phalle's larger-than-life sculptures are now in Washington DC; to date, the only major outdoor sculpture corridor in our nation’s capital by a woman. Through October 2011 on New York Avenue NW, between 12th &13th click here
Known for her sense of color and playfulness, Niki de Saint Phalle died in 2002 but her work lives on in her famous sculptures, whimsical gardens and grottos throughout the world, and in her perfumes in sculpted bottles.
Her Tarot Garden in Tuscany, Italy Il Giardino dei Tarrochi click here
FREE EVENT Those in Washington DC on Saturday 10 September 2011 at the National Museum of Women in the Arts for all ages 11AM-5PM. Materials are provided to create Niki-inspired works click here
photos: Niki de Saint Skull Niki de Saint Phalle's Queen Califia Patty Mooney Sagittarius
There is a documentary on the negotiation of space between animals and humans, especially in regard to housing developments and land useage. Park rangers state that it is easier to train one bear than 1,000 humans. I've spoken to people who smelled the strong smell of bear in the outback, but have never smelled it myself. Meanwhile, in summer heat bears come down to soak in Los Angeles foothill jacuzzis. photo: Wildpark Bad Mergentheim
I smelled her awake from a dream with this phrase, love the play on the verb, for smelled
moves in both directions
he smelled her, his nose going into the skin, and, the smell came in from a distance, to be smelled. Brazilian artist Ernesto Neto adds scents of spices within his suspended, sculpted shapes. His installations fill space and invite interaction as viewers are sniffers as well as touchers. pictures/coverage at the Museum of Contemporary Art of Rome click here and here at the Armory New York City click here and here for slides
Det. Supt. Foyle: You left the room? Mr. Ellis : It was too dark. Foyle: Well, I know somebody did because um Fleming ah said he heard the door open before the shots were fired.
Guy Spencer: That was Rosemary Harwood.
Foyle: How'd you know that?
Guy: I was just outside.
Foyle: Erah, how did you know it was her if you couldn't see her, because it was, it was too dark to see anything? Guy: I smelled her. She um, she wears lavender water, errr, I'd say she wears it by the bucket. It was definitely her.
- from Foyle's War, The White Feather photos: Molinard Lavande Extrait Double Lura Astor