Tuesday, December 1, 2009

additional info on grande dame Lauder

American joke
knock knock
who's there
Madame who?
Madame foot's caught in the door

If you ever wanted to be a fly on the wall, here was a moment in time ...

Yuri Gutsatz (1914-2005), chief perfumer at Roure-Bertrand Fils & Justin Dupont, Paris, France shares anecdotes of meeting with Estee Lauder.
Scroll down for the English version, which omits some of the original in French. For example, the keora flower is discussed. You can read of this plant, and its name in 42 languages described in this link and under Sensory Quality.

Yuri Gutsatz founded Le Jardin Retrouvé in 1975

Some of their fragrant offerings:
Le Chèvrefeuille,1977
Cuir de Russie, 1977
Eau de Sandalwood, 1977
Eau de Vétyver, 1977
Le Jasmin, 1977
Le Lys, 1989
Rose Thé, 1989
La Tubéreuse, 1980
Veritable Eau de Cologne, 1977
La Verveine, 1978
Le Citron Poivré
Le Vétyver-Vanille
L'eau du Jardin
Eau de cuir de Russie
L'eau pour Homme
Décibelde PSS

Of interest to me in the above referenced anecdotes story is not only the differences in nasal acuity but of skin absorption or burn rate. I know that people "burn off" fragrance at different rates, but this seemed an extreme case. It made more clear that a smell seeming "heavy" to many would seem light, or "not even there", in the condition when one's burn-off rate is that fast.

lubock woodcut from inner bark of linden tree: Farnos

I selected this image for the noses, a red and a pig's!
Pigs with their good noses -see previous posts
Lyall Watson devoted a whole book to suidae acuity
translation copyright: Alexander Boguslawski 1999:
I'm a poor lad, I suppose, but I have a crooked nose
And I strike a glorious pose. My name is Farnos the Red Nose.
For three days I drank booze while putting on my dancing shoes.
I donned a feathered hat to dance and filled with farts my spacious pants.
Finally, fully dressed, astride, I took my winepig for a ride.
And grunting, this pig of mine keeps sniffing out her favorite wine.

thanks to perfumer Vedat Ozan for the link to Yuri/Le Jardin Retrouve